Changing oil and working the top end.

Changing oil and working the top end.

Okay, in noticed my oils viscosity just gave up and made my gearbox funny, so time to change. After hearing opinions from other 2-stroke riders, I finally decided to follow my coach’s advice, well not much of a real life coach but an on-line buddy SiamBxr.

What you’ll need:

1 litre diesel

600 ml 10w40 Shell SVX4 – gearbox oil

400 ml 10w40 Shell SVX4 – cleaning oil

1 steel spatula

Few drops of 2t oil

Wrenches to get the drain opened

About a palm sized light sand paper or a toothbrush.

Okay here goes:

1. After a 20 minute ride, let the engine cool off for about 10 minutes.

2. When you can hold on to it without screaming in agony, you’re good

3. Open up the drain plug and drain the used oil on a container (you have to dispose this off properly, i brought mine to a treatment facility Marikina rules)

4. When the oil is dripping its last drop, try to push the kick-start gently, just to make sure old oil get through, then close the drain plug again.

5. Pour 600 ml of diesel on the gearbox, then gently push the kick starter again, after about 5 minutes of pushing, drain the diesel from your gearbox (save the gas, you can use this to ignite charcoal for barbeque) put the plug back in

6. Now place the 400 ml 10w40 on the gearbox, push the starter again gently to work the oil in. Try to tilt the bike left and right just to make sure all of the components touched by the diesel will be oiled. Now drain the oil, let the drain plug be open for the remainder of the procedure. (note that as much as possible, gently push the starter once and every while)

Okay now working the top end:

1. Remove the pipe.

2. Unplug your sparks then open the cylinder head exposing the top of the piston.

3. Place some decent amount of 2Ton the piston and on the cylinder head, to make the carbon build-up soft.

4. Gently scrape it off with the spatula and then check on the spark’s gap.

5. Get the toothbrush wet with diesel and carefully wipe off the remaining carbon on the piston and on the cylinder

6. Once the piston and the cylinder looks clean, set it aside.

7. Now get the pipe, this is the hardest to clean but can be cleaned with patience and all.

8. As much as possible remove the carbon built up on the entrance and on the exit of the pipe (my silencer is detachable and no need to work on that too much, i just put some gas, shake it off and let it dry)

9. Put everything back together.

10. So after an hour or 2 of cleaning the engine and the bike, put the 600ml 10w40 in seal everything, tilt the bike left and right while gently pushing the starter.

11. Once you feel like the oil sets, start the bike, but don’t ride it off yet, let it heat up for about 5 minutes on idle, then ride all gears in, to make sure the oil gets distributed inside.